The Datsun 240Z combined a straight-six engine, rear-wheel drive and elegant two-seat bodywork in a sports car that remains genuinely usable. Age, corrosion and decades of modification now matter more than a shiny finish, however. This UK-focused guide explains how to assess one properly.
What is a Datsun 240Z?
The 240Z belongs to the first-generation S30 family. Nissan launched the Fairlady Z in Japan in 1969, while export cars wore the Datsun name. The 240Z used Nissan’s L-series inline-six engine and independent strut suspension at both ends. Market, year and specification matter, so do not assume every imported S30 matches a UK-supplied car.
Nissan’s Heritage Collection records the S30’s competition success, including overall victories in the 1971 and 1973 Safari Rally. That history helped turn an accessible Japanese sports car into an internationally recognised classic.
Datsun 240Z, 260Z and 280Z differences
| Model | What distinguishes it | Why buyers should care |
|---|---|---|
| 240Z | Early S30 derivative with the 2.4-litre L-series six; the model most buyers associate with the original shape. | Original specifications, early details and matching documentation can materially affect desirability. |
| 260Z | Later 2.6-litre development, offered in different body configurations and market specifications. | Do not price or describe a converted or rebadged 260Z as a 240Z without documentary evidence. |
| 280Z | 2.8-litre S30 derivative associated principally with markets outside the UK. | Imported examples require careful checks of specification, identity, registration history and parts compatibility. |
The later 280ZX is a separate S130-generation car rather than simply another engine version of the original S30. Read our Datsun 280ZX feature for the distinction.
Where does a Datsun 240Z rust?
Corrosion is the decisive buying issue. Fresh paint, underseal and tidy carpets can conceal expensive structural work, so arrange a lift inspection with someone familiar with S30 shells. Ask who completed previous repairs and look for photographs and invoices.
Front structure
Inspect chassis rails, front crossmember areas, tension-rod mounting points, inner wings, battery tray and the metal around the suspension turrets. Compare both sides for distortion and crude repairs.
Sills and floors
Check inner and outer sills, jacking areas, floorpans, seat mounts and their joins. Thick coating is not proof of sound metal; seams and drain areas deserve close attention.
Rear structure
Inspect rear wheelarches, lower quarters, boot floor, spare-wheel well, rear valance, suspension mounting areas and the seams around the hatch aperture.
Water traps
Look around the windscreen and hatch seals, scuttle, doors and lower wings. Damp carpets, staining or misted lamps can point to leaks and hidden corrosion.
Engine, cooling and fuel-system checks
- Insist on a cold start: confirm the engine is genuinely cold before it is started. Listen for persistent rattles and watch for smoke after start-up and under load.
- Check oil and coolant: look for contamination, neglected fluids and leaks. Confirm the car reaches and maintains a stable temperature on a meaningful drive.
- Assess carburettor behaviour: poor balance, air leaks, worn linkages or unsuitable modifications can produce hesitation and an uneven idle. Proper diagnosis is better than repeatedly adjusting around another fault.
- Inspect fuel delivery: old hoses, tanks and fuel-system components need careful examination. Any smell or sign of leakage needs immediate attention.
- Check the exhaust: inspect the manifold and system for leaks, damage and inadequate ground clearance.
Compression and oil-pressure readings can be useful, but interpret them with a specialist and alongside service history. A single number does not replace a cold start, road test and physical inspection.
Gearbox, differential, steering and brakes
Drive the car for long enough to use every gear when cold and warm. Check for baulking, jumping out of gear, clutch slip and driveline vibration. Listen for differential whine and knocks as the throttle is applied and released.
The steering should respond consistently without alarming free play, stiffness or wandering. Inspect bushes, ball joints, wheel bearings, dampers and springs rather than assuming vague behaviour is simply part of an old-car experience. The braking system should operate straight and progressively; examine flexible hoses, hard lines, calipers, rear drums and the operation of the handbrake.
Body, trim and originality
Panel fit can reveal accident damage or previous restoration problems, although even sound cars may not display modern-car shut lines. Look down the flanks, compare gaps, examine paint edges and search the engine bay, cabin and boot for overspray.
Missing model-specific trim, lamps, instruments, switches, glass and interior pieces can be costly or time-consuming to replace. Make an inventory and check real availability before agreeing a price. If originality matters to you, document wheel type, seats, steering wheel, induction system, engine, gearbox and body alterations.
Modified 240Zs and Samuri cars
Period modifications form an important part of 240Z history, but value depends on what was fitted, when, by whom and what evidence survives. A car described as a Samuri should not be accepted purely because it has red paint, stripes or performance parts. Provenance, period records and expert verification are essential. Our separate Datsun 240Z Samuri article provides more context.
Modern engine swaps, suspension changes and brake conversions are not automatically undesirable, but inspect their engineering quality, insurance declaration and documentary trail. Establish whether removed original components accompany the car.
UK paperwork, tax and MOT points
Compare the V5C with the car’s identity and check the history supplied by the seller. For an import, examine registration, dating and import documents. Confirm that recorded engine capacity, colour and other relevant details agree with the vehicle.
As of September 2026, GOV.UK states that a vehicle built or first registered more than 40 years ago can be MOT-exempt if it has not been substantially changed, but it must remain roadworthy. The keeper must make the relevant declaration, and uncertainty about modifications should be resolved before claiming exemption. A voluntary MOT can provide an additional independent snapshot, although it is not a substitute for a specialist 240Z inspection.
Questions to ask the seller
- Is it UK-supplied or imported, and which records support that history?
- Who repaired or restored the shell, and are photographs and invoices available?
- What is the chassis identity, and does it agree with the V5C and plates?
- Which engine, gearbox, differential, brakes and suspension are fitted?
- What work has been completed on the cooling, fuel and braking systems?
- Which original parts are included with the sale?
- May the car be inspected on a lift and started completely cold?
Datsun 240Z viewing checklist
Before travelling
Request the chassis details, underside photographs, cold-start confirmation, history summary and a list of modifications. Check that the seller can demonstrate authority to sell.
During inspection
Allow plenty of daylight, use a lift, photograph suspect areas and check every electrical function. Do not let a warm engine or wet bodywork shorten the inspection.
During the road test
Monitor temperature and oil pressure, use every gear, test braking safely and listen during acceleration, steady cruising and overrun.
Before paying
Reconcile the identity and paperwork, price the faults, confirm insurance and obtain a written receipt describing the car and agreed inclusions.
Frequently asked questions
Is a Datsun 240Z a good first classic car?
A sound car can be enjoyable and usable, but it is not a maintenance-free modern vehicle. Access to an S30 specialist, suitable storage and a realistic repair budget matter more than previous classic-car ownership alone.
Should I buy a restored 240Z?
A documented restoration by a respected specialist can remove much uncertainty. Inspect it as carefully as an unrestored car: photographs should show the hidden metalwork, not merely paint and interior trim.
Is a 260Z the same as a 240Z?
No. They are related members of the S30 family, but engine capacity, production details, body options and market specifications differ. Verify the actual chassis and documents.
Does a 240Z need an MOT in the UK?
Many examples are old enough for historic-vehicle MOT exemption, but eligibility also depends on substantial-change rules and the keeper’s declaration. The car must remain roadworthy. Always check current GOV.UK guidance for the individual vehicle.
Research note: model history was checked against Nissan’s Heritage Collection. UK historic-vehicle information was checked against GOV.UK in September 2026. Specifications vary by year and market; verify an individual car before purchase.
